I want comfort, it’s cold - I open it, it’s hot - I close it, and all this without stopping or getting out of the car. Bought - a heater faucet from a VAZ 08. It was a choke cable from the same VAZ 08 and a control lever block from an IZH-combi.
I took everything apart - I love the space
Since the manual throttle control cable was no longer needed, I threw it out, and in its place stuck a cable in a sheath from a VAZ 08, why in a sheath? The fact is that the cables pass through the stove air duct and all the moisture settles on them, and this is rust and wedge...
The faucet is assembled and ready for installation. You need to buy rubber seals for the body
Control block…
For me, it fits very well into the overall atmosphere. I threw out the lower lever as unnecessary, I’m thinking of transferring the control of the heater motor to the right toggle switch, and installing a cigarette lighter in the empty space on the left instead of a stationary emergency light...
The cable sheath must be fixed on the crane body, there is even a special place there, but it does not suit me. I came up with the idea of making my own fasteners. I honestly admit, by trial and error, I came up with the fastening three times and all with the use of two pins, but they disappeared because it required a lot of manipulation with the metal.
The solution came like an inspiration - the simpler, the more reliable!
I made a template from paper, and then from cardboard, which I transferred to metal and, with the help of a Bulgarian, sculpted the mount!
Drilled holes locally in the faucet body
And this is what happened
riveter to the rescue
And he went to the garage to install this miracle of a man-made act.
and this is from the salon
In the store I still couldn’t find the rubber seals for the body shell for the hoses, if I don’t find them, then as it was, I’ll go for the polyurethane foam... Foam rules!
I left the tap-pump connection for later... I’ll connect it locally, bypassing the carb, having bought a meter of 16x24 hose
2. Installation of the NAMI-4 interior heater in the UAZ Hunter
In Hunter, windows sweat - this is an axiom. One of the main reasons for this disease is the imperfect design of the air intake and interior heater (interior heater).
The air intake hatch is slightly “recessed” relative to the plane of the front end, so water enters the cabin without encountering much resistance from the rubber seal of the hatch. This happens even when the hatch is closed, since the design does not allow the lid to be pressed tightly.
When the hatch is open, rain, snow and splashes rush into the air intake in an endless stream. The most interesting thing is ahead - this stream of water and snow falls directly on the stove radiator. The effect you get is like in a steam room, when you pour on hot stones to “give the park some steam.”
Moisture-saturated air is sucked in by the heater fan and distributed evenly throughout the car interior. On such days, the UAZ driver becomes an illusionist or juggler, deftly performing manipulations with the steering wheel, gear knob and rag for wiping the windows.
And the standard heater really likes to warm the passenger while freezing the driver at the same time. The air flow from the fan is distributed unevenly, so the passenger receives significantly more heat than the driver.
This whole madhouse with the stove is very annoying, so UAZ owners are trying in every possible way to eliminate design flaws. Some remodel the stove itself, others modernize the air intake flap, others simply buy a plastic “nostril” for the air intake. I have always dreamed of a “NAMI” stove, about which I read many positive reviews on the pages of Drive.
The "NAMI" stove is the development of engineers from the "Central Scientific Research Automotive and Automotive Institute "NAMI".
You won’t find such a stove in an auto parts store - it’s a one-off production, or at most small-scale. The NAMI stove has already undergone four modernizations that improve its functionality and power.
The beauty of this stove is that it is devoid of all the shortcomings of the standard UAZ heater, while it has a number of design solutions that increase comfort and ergonomics. The only big drawback of the NAMI heater is its high price.
Well, what can you do, you have to pay for comfort... After weighing all the pros and cons, I decided not to modernize the “native” heater, but to buy a ready-made “NAMI-4” stove.
I went to the website, called the phone number indicated there, and made an appointment right at the gates of the NAMI Institute. On the appointed day, I took the morning train and went to Moscow. At a pre-agreed time, a UAZ, cheerful, green-orange in color, drove up to the entrance of the institute. A pleasant elderly man got out of the car, who turned out to be one of the developers of the NAMI heater. He told me that the heater is assembled from spare parts available in auto stores (motor, impeller, radiator, cabin filters), but they make the heater body and the air intake “nostril” using their own matrices. The stove is assembled by hand, all joining seams are carefully sealed. We also discussed the theoretical prospects for increasing production volumes and reducing prices, because at a lower cost the popularity of this stove would increase significantly. But, according to the development engineer, due to the high cost of components and materials, it is not possible to improve the pricing policy. Having paid, I took the stove and went home.
Installation of the heater "NAMI-4"
The heater set "NAMI-4" consists of:
1. Heater with control unit – 1 pc.
2. Plastic console of the control unit – 1 pc.
3. Coolant supply hose – 2 pcs.
4. Extended windshield blower hose – 1 pc.
5. Air filter housing – 1 pc.
6. Air filter housing cover – 1 pc.
7. Air filter – 2 pcs.
8. Fastening kit.
9. Installation instructions.
The installation of the NAMI-4 heater is described in detail in the attached instructions, but I will try to describe in general terms the scope of work.
I started installing the stove late at night, so don’t judge strictly for the photos of a black UAZ in the dark.)))
First of all, you need to drain the coolant. According to the Operation Manual for the UAZ 315195 RE 05808600.133-2012 (Id. 2, Rev. 2013) The filling capacity of the engine cooling system is 12.5 liters. I combined the replacement of the stove with the replacement of the coolant, purchasing two bottles of green NORD antifreeze, 10 liters and 4 liters.
We disconnect the coolant supply hoses and the windshield defogger hoses from the standard heater, and disconnect the electrical wires. Unscrew the standard console from the instrument panel. We remove the standard heater, the air intake hatch, the rubber seal of the hatch, and the hatch control mechanism.
The standard stove has been removed
Hunter's standard heater and NAMI-4 stove
It is advisable to plug the holes inside the air intake box that remain after dismantling the hatch control mechanism.
Thoroughly clean and degrease the groove in which the rubber hatch seal was located.
Clean and degrease the groove
We try on the air filter housing to the air intake and drill eight holes in the metal with a diameter of 3.2 mm along the holes of the housing.
Probably, each UAZ is unique, so the shape of the air filter landing surface is slightly different from the shape of the air intake landing surface. Care must be taken to align these connecting parts.
After the holes are drilled, set the air filter housing aside, remove metal shavings and apply sealant to the seating surface of the air intake. Yes, thicker, thicker! Water should not penetrate into the passenger compartment through the joint between the air filter housing and the air intake.
I used ABRO silicone black sealant. I used half the tube. After applying the sealant, install the air filter housing in place and tighten it using eight self-tapping screws.
Remove excess sealant.
Air filter housing installed
The joint is sealed
We install the cabin air filters in their places and close the air filter housing cover, which we secure with four screws. The kit comes with black self-tapping screws, but I successfully lost them in the depths of the garage. By the way, the cabin filters are from some VAZ model.
Cabin filter from VAZ
Filters in place
Regarding the cover, I have several comments/wishes for the designers of this heater.
1. The shape of the lower edge of the cover does not match the shape of the front of the car. An unsightly gap is formed, into which a lot of dirt gets clogged. Most likely I will have to file the edge.)))
Ugh, what a terrible gap
2. The right wiper touches the cover a little during operation. Perhaps this will be cured after processing the lower edge with a file, but there is a possibility that you will have to heat it with a hairdryer and make a “dent” for the wiper to work freely.
The contact point between the wiper and the cover
3. The cover must be removed periodically to clean or replace the air filters and remove dirt accumulated under the cover. The fastening of the cover with self-tapping screws begins to become loose over time. It would be more logical to use threaded bushings as a more reliable and durable connection method.
New air intake shape
Air intake cover. Front view
Now let's move on to work inside the car. We install the new heater in its original place using two studs and M6 nuts from the fastening kit. I had no problems during installation - the heater fell into place as if it had always lived there.
Next, we will install the plastic console of the control unit. To do this, we need to drill two holes with a diameter of 3.2 mm in the instrument panel along the holes in the console. The console must be in the same plane as the instrument panel. We attach the control unit console to the instrument panel with two self-tapping screws, and the standard console with buttons is attached to it using two self-tapping screws. To be honest, the design is not very strong, and the wiring harness connectors have difficulty reaching the buttons on the standard console.
Heater control unit console and standard console
Beard. Side view
We connect the heater tap control rod and fix it with a special bracket from the fastening kit.
We connect the coolant supply hoses to the heater and the heater tap, tightening the connections with clamps. We install the windshield blower hoses. Here I would like to draw your attention to another design flaw. Initially, the coolant supply hoses are not straight, but somehow cleverly curved. It seems that this shape was given to the hoses taking into account their future location in the space between the tap and the heater. In fact, it turned out that only one of the hoses was bent correctly and fits into place as it should. The second hose could not be laid correctly in place. Manipulations of turning, unfolding and exchanging hoses did not lead to a solution to this puzzle. In any case, the hose that fits onto the lower branch pipe of the faucet rests against the heater body and, breaking, tends to jump off. Exhausted, I laid the hose like this:
Laying coolant supply hoses
Connecting hoses to the heater tap
Bottom hose laid poorly
I think I will have to return to this issue when I start installing an electric pump.
Next we connect the electrical. I have a wire with a cross section of 4 mm2 stretched from the ignition switch relay to power additional consumers. I connected the heater power wire to the block of this wire. The ground wire was secured to the ground disconnector bolt. Massive mass, damn it. By the way, all wiring in the NAMI-4 heater has a cross-section of 2.5 mm2, and the power wire has a cross-section of 4 mm2. A 30A power fuse is mounted on the heater body.
Well, we’re almost done, all that’s left is to fill in the coolant and, with fingers crossed, check that the system is working...
A little more, uh, a little more...
A little about my impressions:
The heat dissipation of the stove is good, but in this regard I did not complain about the standard stove, because the radiator of the standard stove is twice as large as that of the NAMI-4. The flow of warm air is distributed more evenly between the driver and passenger, but the second one again gets a little more. Or maybe it's me who is so cold? The foot warms up well on the gas pedal, but the left foot is noticeably colder due to the incoming air flow from the door. A strong flow of hot air passes between the front seats, towards the rear seat. In my case, there is an armrest bar between the seats, so it is necessary to use either an additional set of air ducts (sold as an additional option for the stove) or install a second cabin stove. Although, even without these tricks, not a single passenger sitting in the back has ever complained about the cold.
The NAMI-4 fan has three rotation speeds and is much quieter than a standard stove. I turn on the second speed only to quickly warm up the interior; I don’t use the third speed at all.
I forgot about fogging up the windows during rain or snow, like a bad dream. Water does not enter the cabin through the air intake. In the windshield blowing mode, the air flow is much stronger than that of the standard heater.
Unfortunately, due to the design of the air filter, the flow of forced air has decreased while the car is moving, so in the city you have to turn on the fan in first speed mode a little more often.
But dust now does not fly straight into the cabin, but is deposited on the filters.
In general, my impressions of the NAMI-4 heater are positive, I don’t regret the money spent.
I decided to install a second stove in my UAZ. And so, armed with advice and tips, I began to implement the idea of installing a second stove. It all started with the search for the stove itself.
Many people praise salon stoves from Patriot. They say they are hot, unpretentious, quiet at work. As I found out, there are 2 types of main stoves for Patricks: OS-4 and OS-7. The difference in power: OS-4 - 4000 W, OS-7 - 9000 W. There are also modifications, but for the most part these are the same stoves with different design changes. Everything about them is good, but there is such a bad factor as the price. The price for them is such that only the sun is higher. Depending on the model, from 4900 to 8900. Note that these are prices from the Internet, without delivery to Kursk. (Although no, I found one for 3950 rubles in Vladivostok...)
In general, I began to look for something cheaper, but then they called me and offered me a new OS-4 stove in a metal casing for 4,000 rubles. and a gazelle pump for 500 rubles.
Great, half the job is done - the most basic parts have been purchased. Now we need to connect it all. Namely: connect the hoses to the heater radiator and pump, attach the pump and remove the wiring. And if connecting the hoses is even more or less clear, then fiddling with the wiring is for me a dark forest with wolves. I am not familiar with electrical circuits and I need not just a diagram like from a book, but preferably a detailed and understandable one.
They drew me a detailed diagram of connecting the pump and the stove at 2 speeds. The only thing I changed in the circuit is the “+” fuse. Instead of one for 15 A, I installed two. Separately for the stove - 10 A and separately for the pump - 7.5 A.
I didn’t find his name, but anyway, thank you very much.
Here is the diagram:
Connection diagram for the stove and pump.
Having bought in stores all sorts of small things like: 3 Zhiguli relays, 6 meters of hose for 16 for antifreeze, 6 meters of wire with a cross-section of 2.5, 3 meters of wire with a cross-section of 0.75, 20 contacts (mother and father), heater button 82.3709-04.09, heat shrink different sizes (included) and a wiring splitter, I started installing the stove in the car.
Theoretically, I expected to place the stove between the front seats, but in a metal case it did not fit there. The handbrake and the passenger seat were in the way. I took the stove out of its protection and tried it on in the car. Fits. And due to the Y-shape, it does not rest against the handbrake, BUT... It sticks out strongly from behind. One of the rear passengers will definitely touch the radiator with their foot. This means that the option of installing a stove without a casing in a homemade bar like in the Patriots is also out of the question. The option “under the seat” was immediately rejected due to the narrow seat slide.
As a result, I had no choice but to start doing it myself. It was decided to raise the passenger seat and place the heater in the housing as close as possible to the handbrake. She stood under the seat just up to the sled. I mounted the stove like this:
on the left - with the handbrake mounting bolt (this is also where the ground wire came out),
on the right - 2 self-tapping screws with a press washer.
I had to raise the front passenger seat by 1.5 cm. Using a lining, I lifted 5 washers under each bolt. The washers are wide, I had them lying around for a long time, so they came in handy. I don't even know what they are from.
The bolts securing the seat to the floor had to be replaced with longer ones, namely 50 mm. (native-35 mm).
I began to think about where to install an additional pump. I read online that there are two main options:
1 – after the engine block. (at the entrance)
2 – To the return of the system, after the cabin stove.
So, because of where to put the pump, there are whole battles going on on the internet. The people give a bunch of arguments in their favor, during breaks they criticize their opponents. There are physical laws, natural resistance of liquids, etc. and so on.
In general, not really understanding anything, I decided to install the pump after the engine block. I removed the battery, removed the air filter and began trying on the pump. I tried it on taking into account that the antifreeze hoses would not bend when they go from the pump to the heater radiator. In general, after 4 hours of thinking and trying on, I found a place on the body for the battery socket.
I inserted the heater button in place of the rear marker buttons, slightly widening the hole in the instrument panel. Anyway, I don’t have a tail light and the wiring from it is isolated and folded.
The stoves are connected in series:
Engine block - pump - main heater - additional heater - engine pump. (antifreeze hoses enter the stoves from below and come out from above.) I started it, warmed up the car, everything is fine, there are no leaks at the joints. The hoses of the second stove have warmed up, which means the stove will also heat up. I added antifreeze to the system, about 3 liters.
After that I finished the wiring and connected everything to the battery. The stove blows great. At second speed, the hot air makes the boots that stand on the floor near the rear seats sway in case of mud.
I still haven’t heard how the pump works, it doesn’t make any engine noise. Well, okay, these are trifles. I think I will hear if necessary.
After work, there was still a meter of rubber hose left. “Moms” had to be purchased, 5 pieces were missing. The relay was marked with colored electrical tape. Yellow is the pump, green is the stove.
Well, here's a photo of the process:
P.S. Continuation:
I went for a ride today and covered 87 km. I drove with both one and two heaters on. It's really hot in the cabin! Even when only the front (original) heater is operating at first speed. If you turned on two stoves, the son behind me started screaming that he was hot.
If you drive with the heaters turned off, the windows start to sweat. The windows also sweat when driving with the second heater on.
In general, I'm pleased.
stove without housing
4
installing a stove in the cabin
7
8
pump installation
connecting hoses
2nd speed power button
relay and fuse box
To install the stove, I had to buy a cone drill to make 2 holes for inlet and outlet in the floor.
I marked the large holes using a rubber seal, and the fastening holes using a piece of paranit. It would be possible to mark everything right away with paranit, but I didn’t find it right away. The essence of marking the holes is to imprint the protruding parts of the stove on the parasite. Then we simply place it on the floor and drill holes. The main thing is not to confuse the direction of the stove.
It was impossible to clean the floor; the water and dirt froze tightly. The photo shows how I ran the wires to the remote control and power supply to the stove with a pump.
On my fuel diagram you can see that there are 2 tank switches. One for the supply from the left or right tank, the other for the return. I installed a tee on the supply that goes to the filter, connected the pump and ran all the pipes.
I fully connected everything and checked the operation. Now it’s so hot in the car that you can’t even drive in a T-shirt and shorts.
But after 3 days it stopped starting, white smoke was coming out of the exhaust, you could hear the fuel igniting, but after two attempts to start it began to show error 13. I had to check the glow plug, but it was normal. Then I disassembled the stove, and in it, like in the EGR system, unburned fuel with diesel exhaust flakes turned into lumps of shoe polish. I had to clean everything and put it back together.
When assembling the combustion chamber, its mounting bolts were found to be completely torn off. The standard is M5x10 with an asterisk. I went to the store, bought 6 M6x10 hex bolts, cut the threads into 6 and assembled them.
After several weeks of testing, the stove still works great. And apparently it got shitty from the fuel when I tested it. Was wrong. It becomes clogged with the addition of anti-gel. As soon as I stopped adding, the problem went away.
While the 514th diesel engine is outside the engine compartment, we decided to start modifying the original Hunter stove.
It's no secret that the original stove works great. You can, of course, replace it with a NAMI stove, but it takes a long time to find one and the pleasure is not cheap. Therefore, on the Internet, an option was found to modify the original stove using two snails from KAMAZ (left 5320-8118027, right 5320-8118026) and squirrel wheels from a GAZelle assembled (3307-8101178). At the same time, we decided to replace the heater faucet, because the original one was leaking, and we wanted to adjust the temperature on the front panel, and not by crawling into the legs of the front passenger. For this purpose, a set of crane and cable was purchased. The faucet is silumin with a ceramic element (as it was written on the packaging). Of course, it didn’t fit one on one and had to be modified. The base for the second tube was made from a construction plate (cut from an old faucet), and bolts were screwed in as studs. This is how the collective farm structure turned out. She stood in her usual place:
Adapter plate
Then we cut off the excess with a jigsaw. They also dismantled the lower element of the standard stove and trimmed the bottom of the stove trough. This is how the assembly kit turned out:
Assembly kit
Then the snails were installed on the plate, and Shumka was glued to seal it, since the width of the plate is greater than the width of the flat part of the stove body:
Stove assembly - top view
And the front view:
Stove - front view
While the stove was removed, they stuck a Shumka on the engine shield behind the stove. There probably won’t be much sense, but the noise remained :). In this photo, the modified faucet has already been installed in its original place. And two technological holes were made in the panel in front of the turtle so that the upper bolts securing the gearbox to the engine could be properly tightened:
Noise behind the stove.
We put the modified stove in place:
The stove is in place
But it turned out that the snails were not placed quite correctly. They can interfere with your feet. You will have to remove it back and turn the snails towards the engine compartment by 45 degrees, especially since there is space there:
The snails need to be tightened
After installing the snails in the correct position, you can install the cable for the faucet, assemble the electrical part and stretch the glass blower.
It ended up that the parallel installation of snails was unsuccessful. Snails interfered with the navigator's legs:
Snails interfere with the navigator's legs
The stove was removed, the snails were unscrewed, the stove body was put in place and the position of the snails was already marked in place. The pilot and navigator had different angles of rotation of the snail due to the displacement of the stove body relative to the central axis of the UAZ. After the new markings, we re-drilled the holes in the adapter plate and re-attached the snails:
New position of the stove snails.
Now the stove is back in place “like it was original.” It no longer bothers my legs:
New position of snails in the cabin
And about the Carlsons and the radiator:
For a long time they wanted to amputate the great viscous coupling and switch to electric Carlsons. Moreover, when overcoming fords, it is necessary to be able to stop the fans so as not to break off the blades. Fans from the VAZ 2108 were chosen as electric Carlsons. They immediately decided to install two for the reliability of the design and duplication. Initially the fitting looked like this:
Trying on the Carlsons
But the truth of life put everything in its place. When the fittings were carried out with the housings, it became clear that such an arrangement would not work. After heated discussions between the pilot and navigator, it was decided to interlock the Kalson bodies at the same level, and make ears for the radiator. The bodies were joined together with the remainder of the U-shaped aluminum profile. Moreover, a pin was screwed into the top one for further fastening the clamp for the wiring (we want to bring it up):
Coupled Carlson bodies
Aluminum radiator ears
To prevent the Carlson cases from rubbing the radiator, the sharp edges of the cases were covered with a U-shaped rubber band:
Rubber band on Carlson's body
Then they bolted it all together and this is what the radiator with Carlsons looks like:
Assembled radiator
This design fits perfectly into the engine compartment:
Rating 0.00A spacious and voluminous interior is one of the main advantages of the UAZ Patriot. A large amount of free space inside the car is especially helpful when there is a need to transport large items. Among other things, the possibility of freely seating passengers in the rear seats also brings its advantages when traveling or going on vacation with a large group.
The SUV is equipped with a standard interior heater, which does its job quite well. But when the outside temperature reaches -10 degrees below zero or more, the stove’s power begins to fall short. To create comfortable conditions inside the car while it’s freezing outside, most car owners install an additional interior heater UAZ-3163.
Selecting an additional interior heater
The UAZ Patriot stove is quite reliable, but sometimes situations occur when the device refuses to function correctly. If a breakdown occurs during a long trip, the driver and passengers will find themselves in unfavorable conditions. This is why it is so important to install an auxiliary stove. The device will not only heat the voluminous interior of the UAZ Patriot to the required temperature, but will also be a way out of a critical situation.
Which device should I choose as an additional heating source? It is advisable to install the “original” heater UAZ-3163 from more expensive configurations. There is no significant difference in whether the stove is new or purchased on the secondary market. The main thing is that the device works and is in good condition. The auxiliary heating source must include a radiator and a 12V fan.
You can carry out the installation in a specialized service or carry out all the work yourself. Installing a second heater does not require specific knowledge and does not take much time.
Before installing all the components yourself, you must first divide the work into stages, which includes:
- Choosing the optimal location for an additional interior heating device;
- Depressurize the system by pouring the antifreeze into a previously prepared container;
- Connect an additional heater to the engine cooling system.
Choosing a suitable place in the Patriot’s cabin for the second stove is not difficult. You can place it between the front seats or under the passenger seats. Another option is to install it under the front seats. There is enough space, so it all comes down to the personal preferences of the car owner.
Why is the “original” heater from expensive configurations the best fit? The thing is that integrating such a device into the overall system is much easier. In this case, connection to the system is possible in parallel. With a linear connection, one significant disadvantage will emerge during operation: if the cabin becomes too hot, you will not be able to turn off one of the heaters.
True, purchasing a device from Patriot in the Limited configuration today is quite problematic and is only possible at “disassembly”. But there is another option for connecting to the system: bring the hoses under the hood and connect them to the main line through a tee. To do this you need:
- Install auxiliary lines inside the car by laying them under the upholstery, securing them with plastic rivets at the same time.
- Connect all hoses to the additional interior heater using clamps.
- Supply power: disconnect the battery terminals, find a free connector in the wiring and connect.
- Remove air from the system and fill the cooling system with liquid.
- Before you start using new equipment, you must check all connections and make sure there are no fluid leaks.
- Install the dismantled elements in their original location.
Conclusion
An auxiliary heat source allows the driver and passengers of the UAZ Patriot to enjoy warmth and comfort. After all the installation work has been completed, the owner of the SUV will be able to experience all the benefits of an additional stove. But there are also some disadvantages, for example: the appearance of additional noise in the car interior and, due to the larger amount of coolant in the system, the engine will take a little longer to warm up. But, if the car is operated in a region with severe frosts, then all the advantages of such a system outweigh the disadvantages several times.
The UAZ Patriot car has a fairly large and spacious interior. This is a big plus when you need to transport things or carry passengers. But a large interior, in addition to convenience and comfort, requires considerable heating costs. The UAZ Patriot SUV is equipped from the factory with a standard interior heater, which, according to manufacturers' calculations, should heat the entire area of the car. Indeed, the heater copes with its task of heating the interior, but only if the temperature outside is not lower than -5 degrees. The drop in temperature outside is especially clearly felt by passengers in the rear seats.
Rear interior heater options
The UAZ Patriot car does not provide such a function as heated seats. The interior heater, when operating, provides warm air primarily to the driver and front seat passenger. And if on the road and at sub-zero temperatures the only stove in the cabin fails to work, what then should you do? To solve such problems, the UAZ Patriot SUV has a special device called an additional heater. This material will tell you about it, and we will also consider the process of its installation and use.
Any stove can serve as a second heating, but it is advisable to use a more powerful one, so you can take the product, for example, from a Gazelle car. You can install additional heating on a UAZ Patriot SUV either independently, which will require some knowledge, or with the help of a repair shop.
This is what the factory heater looks like
The second heating makes it possible to provide not only a positive temperature in the interior of the UAZ Patriot SUV, but also prevents passengers in the back seat from freezing. Such an auxiliary stove is installed under the following factors:
- if the UAZ Patriot car is used mainly in regions where winters are particularly harsh and the air temperature reaches -20 degrees or lower;
- if you often have to use an SUV;
- in the case of transporting children, for example, daily to school, kindergarten, etc.
The driver can also install a second interior heater if he feels that the standard stove cannot cope with its functions even with slight drops in temperature. That, however, in this case, it is necessary to check the serviceability of the standard heater, but that’s another story.
Operation and connection
If you decide to install additional heating in the UAZ interior, then you should know that the stoves should be connected in parallel. Parallel connection of the main and auxiliary stoves has the following advantages:
Pulling hoses around the cabin
- No additional load is created on the vehicle's energy system.
- It is possible to control devices independently of each other when installing the switch on additional equipment.
- Two functioning stoves will allow you to heat the interior in a matter of minutes.
- There is no need to worry about passengers riding in the back seat. After all, now heat will flow to them from below.
Using another heater has many positive aspects, and most importantly, it provides comfort in the cabin during the cold season.
When installing heaters sequentially, we end up with one drawback - the inability to turn off one of the stoves. When it gets hot in the cabin, of course, you should turn off the heating, since drying out the air is dangerous for the body.
It is recommended to place an additional stove in the following places: between the front seats; under the front seats. It all depends on the model of heater that you choose for your UAZ Patriot. There are many models of “underseat” heaters for car interiors, but it is important to consider not only the performance of the device, but also the size.
Thus, on a UAZ Patriot SUV you can install a regular radiator, which perhaps someone has lying around in the garage, or a special heater with a built-in fan. Let's look at the installation features of the product.
Installation features
Installation of an additional heater on an SUV is carried out in stages:
Antifreeze will circulate in the additional heater, which is pumped by the standard pump. If desired, to ensure greater productivity, you can install an additional pump. At this point, the installation is complete and some disadvantages of such equipment should be considered.
A little about the cons
Of course, the main purpose of the additional heater is to ensure comfort in the cabin by maintaining a temperature of at least 18 degrees in severe frosts. But after installing new equipment, the following negative aspects arise:
- in winter, the engine warms up more slowly;
- the appearance of extra decibels of noise (from an electric fan);
- the appearance of dust that will circulate throughout the cabin due to the operation of fan heaters;
- heating of the floor upholstery where the hoses to the heater pass, which will cause inconvenience in the summer. This problem can be corrected by installing a faucet on the hose leading to the Patriot's heater.
"It's not warmer in winter, it's not colder in summer"
This saying is definitely not about UAZ! At least not about the standard Bukhanka, in which the huge space behind the driver is heated by a frail stove, originally from the 60s, when felt boots and earflaps compensated for any lack of heat.
Either way, it begs to replace the heater with a more modern and efficient one.
The new heater, although made in China, is quite competent. Unlike the standard one, which makes more noise than it produces heat, and also takes up space that we have prepared for the 2nd battery :)
We dismantle the old stove. You will have to unscrew a lot of screws on the partition.
The antifreeze was drained, we combined this operation with replacing the radiator pipes with RedBTR silicone ones.
Large size but low efficiency.
The factory tried to improve it by increasing the hoses and pipes to 22mm, but this was not enough.
The place for the heater was chosen behind the partition, behind the driver's seat.
Four metal corners were secured to the floor with self-tapping screws, having previously been marked along the threaded holes on the heater.
The corners raise the heater slightly above the floor, specifically for better air circulation.
Another angle of the stove location.
It must be said that the 6 holes on the body are equipped with rotating covers, with the help of which it is possible to regulate and direct air flows. The outer diameter of the flange is 40mm, which allows you to put on a plumbing corrugation and supply warm air to the right places (corrugations from washbasins are sold by the meter).
View from the salon door.
A standard chair is not a hindrance. It is fixed in regular places. The heater is connected to the cooling system parallel to the front one, using tees. Standard scheme sequentially! It is not equipped with a crane yet, but there are plans.
The hoses pass through the rear wall of the engine shield through holes into which rubber bushings are installed (they are standard, removed from the partition behind the passenger).
During the operation of the front stove from NAMI and the rear one, it became clear that there was a clear need to install an electric pump that increases the rate of heat transfer. Each stove is 2 times more powerful. Just purchased but not installed yet
Heater control is somewhat different from the generally accepted one. Switching the 3 speeds of the fan motor is carried out by gradually pulling the handle towards you. The resistance is mounted integrally with the switch, so you only need to run one wire with a cross-section of 2.5 mm2 from the switch to the heater. And of course, provide a minus to the heater and a plus (after the ignition switch and protected by a fuse) to the switch itself.
The new heater does a very good job of warming up the middle part of the car, even when turning on the lowest engine speed. The 3rd fastest one was practically not used, despite the fact that our loaf’s ceiling was not completed and there was only vibration insulation on the inside of the metal.
The ventilation and heating system for the interior of UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514, UAZ-31519 and UAZ Hunter cars is very simple and primitive both in design and in operating principle. The heater with its simplest air distribution system simultaneously, in one way or another, participates in both the operation of the heating system and the operation of the UAZ interior ventilation system.
The standard heater of UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514, UAZ-31519 and UAZ Hunter cars is an extremely primitive installation consisting of a box with dampers, which contains a radiator, an electric motor with an impeller and additional resistance.
The simple incoming air distribution system includes an air intake with a mechanical control drive, two windshield blower nozzles, two corrugated hoses and heater box flaps.
On UAZ Hunter cars, since 2010, a plastic box has been added to the heater design, part number 3151-8101231, which is installed between the air intake flap and the heater radiator and is designed to collect and drain rainwater entering the heater when the air intake flap is open.
Rainwater entering through the air intake hatch into this plastic box is drained out through a rubber hose passing to the partition of the engine compartment inside the cabin.
And water or condensate from inside the heater is drained through a second rubber hose located in the lower part of its body and also discharged into the engine compartment through a hole in its partition.
The installation of a plastic box 3151-8101231 greatly reduced the intensity of the oncoming air flow entering the cabin when the car was moving and worsened natural ventilation, but rainwater no longer gets on the hot heater radiator and does not form steam in the cabin, which settles on the glass from the inside. In addition, this box prevents most of the dust, sand and dirt from entering directly into the heater, and through it into the interior.
Ventilation of the interior of UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514, UAZ-31519 and UAZ Hunter cars.
The car has natural and forced ventilation. With natural ventilation, air enters the cabin through open rotary vents or door windows. While the vehicle is moving, the incoming air flow additionally enters the cabin through an air intake installed in front of the windshield. The air intake is opened by a lever mounted to the left of the heater.
With the windows closed and forced ventilation, air is pumped into the UAZ interior by the electric heater fan without heating it. The air passes through the air intake, the disconnected heater core, the fan and exits to the driver and front passenger footwells, as well as the central part of the cabin to the rear seats. In addition, air enters the windshield blower nozzles through corrugated plastic hoses.
The intensity of forced ventilation of the cabin with the windows closed is regulated by turning on the heater electric motor to one of the modes, as well as by adjusting the amount of lifting of the air intake flap cover.
Practice shows that the capabilities of the standard ventilation system with the windows closed are very limited and it does not work effectively; there is no normal air circulation in the cabin, which leads to constant glass. Therefore, like everything else in the UAZ, it is desirable to modify the ventilation system in some way; one of the options for such modification is discussed in.
Heating the interior of UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514, UAZ-31519 and UAZ Hunter cars.
The interior of the UAZ is heated by heated air entering inside in the same way as with forced ventilation, but with the heater radiator turned on. To regulate the flow of hot liquid from the engine cooling system to the heater radiator, use a valve, which is installed on the cylinder head in cars with the UMZ-417 and UMZ-421 engines, or located inside on the front panel on the front passenger side, in cars with the ZMZ-421 engine. 409.
In UAZ Hunter cars with a ZMZ-409 engine, to simplify the procedure for controlling the heater tap, you can install a remote control system for it. More details about this in a separate article.
When the control valve is open, fluid from the engine cylinder head enters the heater radiator and is then discharged to the water pump, forming a small circulation circle parallel to the main fluid flow in the system. Fresh air from outside passes through the air intake hatch into the heater box, then by gravity, or forced by a fan, through a hot radiator, it enters the cabin already warmed up.
The flow of thermal air passing through the radiator is distributed to blow the windshield, heat the driver's feet, front passenger and through the central part of the cabin to the rear seats. The air flow can be completely directed to blowing the windshield, for which you need to close the front cover of the heater box and the flaps on the lower air distribution ducts.
The quantity and intensity of heated air entering the cabin is regulated by the opening size of the air intake flap and the rotation speed of the heater fan. Using the heater motor switch, you can select one of two modes of its operation - minimum or maximum fan speed.
The UAZ interior heater only works effectively if the temperature of the liquid in the engine cooling system is at least 80 degrees. In the cold season, to increase the temperature of the coolant, on a UAZ Hunter car it is advisable to install an insulating cover on the radiator lining, and on UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514, UAZ-31519 cars it is advisable to regulate the air flow using radiator shutters.
Refinement and improvement of the design of the UAZ Hunter heater, selection and replacement of the electric motor, seasonal maintenance of the heater.
Like any primitive design, to improve operating efficiency, the standard UAZ Hunter heater needs improvement and some simple modifications. One of the possible options for such a modification, as well as seasonal maintenance of the heater and air distribution system, is discussed in more detail in a separate section.
